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Germinating Seeds

Germinating Seeds is great if you are looking to garden on a budget, or just feel the need to be completely self-sufficient. If either is the case, then starting seeds for your garden may be a great solution to consider. It does take more time and patience than buying seedlings from the local nursery but there is a great sense of satisfaction in knowing you cultivated plants solely by yourself.

Germinating Seeds Basics

Before you get started there are a couple of important aspects to consider when starting seeds for your garden.

  1. Timing – plants need to be planted in the ground at a specific time in order to avoid frosts, and nighttime temperatures that are too low for tender plantlets. You will need to figure out germination times, and about how big you want plants to grow before planting. You can then determine when to start your seeds based on this. Many seed packets will state on the back of the package when to sow inside to help with your planning.
  2. Equipment – you will need to invest in supplies you might not necessarily have on hand. This does add to the upfront costs of your garden endeavor but seeds are much cheaper to buy than seedlings/plants. These supplies can also be reused the following year if you want to repeat the process.
  3. Space – germinating seeds indoors will need a dedicated space that is warm, free from cold drafts, and receives adequate light (unless you are purchasing growing lights). The space you have to work with in your home is most often the limiting factor.

Germinating Seeds Supplies

After the timing is figured out, you will need to have the following supplies on hand:

Seeds – Some of the easiest plants to start from seeds are tomatoes, peppers, broccoli, cauliflower, radish, and cabbage. To keep yourself from getting overwhelmed, first choose a handful of plants that you (and your family) will eat, and then pick a couple of different varieties. Seeds can be found online, at local nurseries/gardening centers, and at most big box retail stores.

Planting trays with covers – Seeds can be started in almost any kind of containers, but using seed starting trays is the most convenient way. If you are using your own containers they will need to be sterilized in a bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) and rinsed well prior to using. There is no need for containers to be bigger than 3-4” across, since plants will be transplanted outside once the weather permits. In the early stages of growth, covers are beneficial to help maintain a moderate level of humidity in the trays.

Potting soil – For the best chance of success, purchase a growing medium that is specifically designed for starting seeds. It will be light and fluffy allowing the roots to grow down through the potting soil and will hold just enough moisture without encouraging disease.

Water – This seems like a no-brainer, but your seeds will need plenty of water/moisture to get started. The tricky part is not overwatering them and encouraging disease/mold growth. Seeds may need to be soaked prior to germination (your seed packet will tell you if they need this step), growing medium will need to be moist for planting, and then seedlings will need to be watered, preferably from the bottom, as the soil dries out.

Sunlight – To keep your new plants from getting tall and spindly (i.e. “leggy”), they need plenty of light during the day. For optimum growth they should receive 12-16 hours of bright sunlight. A window with southern exposure will work the best, if available. Chances are though, to get the most robust growth you will need to invest in some growing lights.

Germinating Seeds Instructions

The actual process of germinating seeds is fairly simple.

  • Moisten potting soil in a large bucket, or bowl, adding enough water until the mixture “clumps” together when you grab a handful. Make sure it isn’t overly wet and dripping water.
  • Fill planting containers with moistened potting soil. Pack the mixture down moderately to fill in any gaps or air pockets.
  • Seed packets will tell you whether the seed needs light or complete darkness for germination and if they need to be soaked in water before planting. If they need light, sprinkle seeds on the surface of the soil; seeds that require darkness need to be planted beneath the soil surface. The general rule of thumb is to plant seeds at a depth that equals 2-3 times the width of the seed. It’s best to err on the side of caution and plant seeds too shallow, than too deeply.
  • Moisten newly planted seeds with a mister or spray bottle, cover with a lid to maintain humidity and place in a warm spot to germinate.
  • Keep the soil moist but not sopping wet and check on the planting trays frequently. When your seedlings begin to emerge remove the cover to allow air circulation. At this point move your trays to a south-facing window or place growing lights about 3” over the tops of the plants.

When your seeds are ready to be moved outdoors, give them some time to acclimate to the climate before putting them in the ground. A few days to a week before you plan on putting them in the ground put the planting trays/containers in a protected spot outside for a few hours. They do need to be brought in at night! Gradually increase the exposure to wind and sunshine until it’s time to plant.

Planting your own seeds can be a rewarding, and budget-friendly way to start a garden. Some seeds need to be started indoors giving them time to grow before they can be moved to their spot in the garden. These tips and ideas will help make your seed starting venture a success!

germinating seeds
Starting Seeds
starting seeds outdoors
Planting Seeds Outdoors
growing seedlings
planting seeds
Germinating Seeds2018-03-14T01:08:40-04:00


Sunflower (Helianthus annus)

The sunflower can be spotted in yards and gardens across the United States. Growing sunflowers is simply as easy as sowing seeds and these beauties can make a stunning addition to gardens without being time and labor intensive.



  • Scientific Name:  Helianthus annus
  • Life cycle:   Annual
  • Soil pH:  6.0 – 7.5
  • Plant hardiness:  All USDA zones
  • Light requirements:  Full sun
  • Water requirements:  Low
  • Fertilizer demand:  Low
  • Planting date:  After last spring frost
  • Flowering season:  Summer
  • Height:  Up to 16’
  • Colors:  Yellow
  • Pests:  Birds, squirrels, mildews, rusts
  • Propagation:  Seed

Sunflower Care

Sunflowers are summer flowers that grow in all USDA hardiness zones as long as they are planted in full sun locations. They need a minimum of 6-8 hours of direct sun every day. The blossoms will “turn” to face the sun as it travels across the sky and can cast large shadows due to their size.

With this in mind, it’s best when growing sunflowers to plant them on the north side of vegetable gardens so they don’t shade out smaller plants.

They thrive in a variety of soil conditions but prefer loose, well-drained soil. This allows their long tap roots to stretch out and help anchor the top heavy plants. Sunflowers thrive in soils that are slightly acidic or slightly alkaline – with a pH ranging from 6.0 – 7.5 – which allows them to grow across so many hardiness zones.

They grow best from seed, begin planting sunflower seeds after the danger of frost has passed. If possible, work the seed bed really well in a 2 – 3’ diameter around where seeds will be planted and to a depth of 2’. This will prevent the soil from being too compact and encourage the spread of roots. Work a balanced, slow release fertilizer into the top 8” of soil and then plant seeds about 1” deep spacing then 6” apart.

A Field of Sunflowers

A Field of Sunflowers

After plants have germinated, water seedlings regularly at the root zone, about 3 – 4” from the stem of the plant. When the plants have established themselves well, switch to a more infrequent watering schedule to encourage deep rooting.

Sunflowers are drought tolerant and love the hot, summer sun, but they will benefit from a weekly watering from the time the flowers develop until they bloom. Adding a couple inches of mulch around the base of established plants will keep weeds down and also help retain soil moisture. Fertilizing sparingly to keep growth controlled; this prevents stems from breaking in the fall causing plants to topple over.

A full grown sunflower plant can range in size from a couple of feet tall (dwarf varieties) to towering heights of 16 feet. Their flower heads can span from a few inches across to almost a foot in diameter.

Due to the height of plants and the size of the flower heads, it may be necessary to help support established plants. This can be done with stakes or even simply tying them to a fence or other supportive structure.

Sunflower Pests



Sunflowers are typically resistant to most insect pests. Their seed-filled flower heads will attract birds and squirrels as the season progresses. If you have no intent on harvesting the seed then there’s no need to protect the plants from these nuisance animals.

But if you want to use the seeds put some barrier methods in place to keep animals from snacking. Home and garden centers – as well as online retailers – sell polyspun garden fleece that can be used to cover flower heads and protect them.

Periodically plants fall prey to mildew or rusts. Cultural methods are the most effective ways to prevent and/or control these diseases: keeping the garden bed weed free, allowing good air circulation around the base of plants, and watering early in the morning.

If the mildew or rust is caught early an application of a garden fungicide can protect the healthy, uninfected foliage; heavily infected plants should be removed and discarded to prevent the spread of disease to other garden specimens.

Sunflowers make a fantastic, cheery addition to any garden space. Needing minimal care in terms of watering and fertilizing they grow to stunning heights and produce dinner plate sized flower heads.


Garden Pests

Common Garden Bugs and How to Get Rid of Them

Garden pests and plant diseases can wreak havoc on flowers and plants creating an incredible amount of damage. While there is a time and place for the appearance of small, crawly creatures in our lives – bees that help pollinate flowers, spiders that help eat mosquitoes – more often than not, their presence does more harm than good. This is especially true when their main food source is the very plants we are growing for our own diets.

Garden pests vary depending on the location/climate and the plants being grown. Some garden bugs aren’t picky and will attack indiscriminately; other pests are species specific and only damage certain plants. Some of the most widespread and common garden pests are described below.

Top Ten Garden Pests

  1. Aphids

Aphids are one of the most common garden pests, affecting most fruits and vegetables, ornamental plants and shade trees throughout North America. The minuscule pear-shaped insects attach themselves to the plant, sucking sap through two tubes projecting rearward from their abdomen. This causes distorted foliage and leaf drop if left untreated. Excretions left behind on plants support sooty mold growth while the feeding itself can spread viral diseases. Hot pepper or garlic sprays can be used as preventative methods. Treatment options include washing infested plants with a heavy spray of water, encouraging predatory/parasitic insects such as aphid midges, lacewings and lady beetles. In cases of severe infestation it is necessary to apply insecticidal soap, neem, or horticultural oil to affected plants.

  1. Cabbage Worms

These velvety green worms do a great amount of damage to cabbage and other brassica-family species when allowed to gain a foothold in plants. Imported to Canada from Europe in the 1800’s the cabbage worm is extremely destructive, especially late in the season when populations are allowed to proliferate. As larvae, cabbage worms will feed on surface leaves creating translucent tissue-like scars. Adult worms chew large holes in the outermost leaves of plants and will continue feeding towards the center of the plant, ultimately boring holes in the cabbage heads. Control of cabbage worm follows many of the same protocol of other garden type worms. This means treatment for armyworm, cutworm, etc. will also treat cabbage worms. Encouraging predatory enemies is a great line of defense: spiders, yellow jackets, beetles, green lacewings, wasps and birds.  Chickens will also peck the adult worms from plants, but care needs to be taken since chickens will eat other garden plants too if they are accessible. Spinosad is a natural insecticide made from the fermentation of soil borne organisms and is effective in cabbage worm control.

  1. Corn Earworm

One of the most destructive pests to attack garden corn plants is the corn earworm. It will also bore into other fruiting vegetables and feed on lettuce if in need of a food source. One single worm can do extensive damage to a garden, thus making it important to treat plants as soon as corn earworms are seen. Damage is typically confined to the tip of the ear; worms devour kernels and then foul the ear with excrement. An integrative pest management (IPM) system is the most effective method of controlling corn earworm. Before the garden soil is allowed to over winter, remove as many pupae as possible or broadcast beneficial nematodes into the soil bed to reduce the population before spring planting.  In the spring set out pheromone traps to catch moths before they can lay eggs. During the growing season keep a vigilant eye out for infestation. You should regularly inspect corn silk for eggs and/or larvae. If found apply mineral oil where the silk enters the ear to suffocate larvae or apply a natural insecticide such as Spinosad.

  1. Cutworm

Cutworms are fat, dark colored, segmented larvae that grow to be about an inch in length. They are not picky about what they eat and can be found infecting most early vegetable seedlings and transplants across North America. Cutworms create devastation by chewing through plants at the ground level (hence, “cutting” the stem) and have the ability to consume small plants in their entirety early in the season. They feed at night when the temperatures are cooler, burrowing into the soil during the day. Pesticide use against cutworms is mostly ineffective leaving preventative measures as the primary line of defense. After fall harvest, allow the soil to sit uncovered to give birds and other predatory animals a chance to pick off exposed larvae and pupae. Wait as long as possible in the spring to plant and place protective collars around the base of plants to keep cutworms from accessing stems. For extra control spread a line of diatomaceous earth around plants to deter larvae.

  1. Potato Beetle

One of the most difficult pests to control in a garden is the potato beetle. It is well known for developing resistance to insecticides. Often called “potato bugs”, the potato beetle feeds on plant leaves. An entire plant can be defoliated quickly if an infestation is left untreated. Tomatoes, peppers and eggplants can act as alternative hosts too. Controlling potato bugs follows many of the same methods as other insect pests: planting resistant varieties, encouraging beneficial insects such as lacewings and ladybugs, sprinkling diatomaceous earth around the base of plants, and spraying with Spinosad if an effective bio-pesticide is needed.

  1. Slugs

Dark, damp spaces with ample green and decomposing plant material are prime locations for garden slugs. As the garden canopy closes and the soil becomes shaded it’s important to keep an eye out for these destructive pests. They are mainly active at night and feed on both living plants and decaying plant matter. Slugs eat large holes in foliage, attacking most all garden vegetables and fruits. Young, tender, low-lying plants are at a higher risk for extensive damage. The most productive method of control is hand picking slugs from the soil and plants about two hours after sunset. Diatomaceous earth or boric acid granules can be spread around the base of plants as a preventative to keep slugs from crossing the barrier. If the infestation is severe, trapping may be a more convenient solution; an easy trapping method is sinking shallow pans of stale beer into the ground – the yeast acts as an attractant, and the slugs fall into the liquid and drown.

  1. Spider Mites

These tiny sucking garden pests are found on the undersides of leaves, wreaking havoc on indoor and outdoor garden plants alike. They feed on plant fluids by piercing leaf tissue and leaving behind pale dots on the leaves. As fluids are sucked from the tissue, leaves turn yellow and may desiccate, dropping off the plant. One of the biggest challenges with spider mites is their prolific nature; often times a heavy infestation will occur, unnoticed, before plants begin to show physical symptoms of damage. Chemical pesticides are ineffective at controlling spider mites. Their application eradicates beneficial insects that feed on the mites making it important to skip synthetic options and control them with natural and organic methods. The best methods of control include introducing/encouraging predatory insects such as ladybugs, lacewings and other predatory mites or spot treat heavily affected areas with neem, insecticidal soap, or botanic insecticides. Severe infestation requires pruning of the affected areas or even pulling and discarding the entire plant to prevent spreading to neighboring plants.

  1. Thrips

Thrips are tiny, slender insects with fringed wings that feed on the sap of garden plants. Damaged plant leaves may turn pale, become splotchy, progressing to a silvery color, and then die. More dangerous than damaged tissue though is the plant viruses often spread when the thrips feed. Controlling thrips is the best management strategy versus trying to get rid of them altogether. Spraying insecticides on plants will kill not only the harmful thrips but also beneficial insects. Sticky traps – in yellow or blue – and pruning infected plant tissues are good options for mechanical control; diatomaceous earth can be applied to the underside of leaves if necessary.

  1. Tomato Hornworm

One of the most common tomato garden pests, tomato hornworms are found in gardens all throughout the United States. These pesky green caterpillars can devastate an entire tomato crop in record time. Their light green color provides fantastic camouflage, making them difficult to spot on foliage. Tomato hornworms can grow up to 5” long and feed voraciously, eating through plant leaves and fruit rapidly.  Removing pests by hand is the most effective method for control. The tomato hornworm caterpillars are not dangerous and do not sting/bite. Ladybugs and green lacewings make great natural predators by feeding on the young caterpillar larvae. Applying insecticides is usually not necessary; however, spinosad and insecticidal soaps are good options if needed as a last resort.

  1. Animals

Insects aren’t the only living enemies of garden plants. Animals such as raccoons, rabbits, deer and birds are notorious for sneaking in and scavenging fruits and veggies just before harvest. Putting up fencing around the perimeter of the garden is a good deterrent for keeping animals out. Keep in mind that fencing may need to be placed down into the soil to prevent animals from burrowing under the barrier. Some of the best animal repellents are essential oils, urine of known predators, and other offensive odors. It is also possible to scare away animals by startling them with motion activated sprinklers, flash tape, or brightly colored balloons.

Many of the common garden pests share pest management methods. For the best control of pests it is key to encourage beneficial insect species in the garden: ladybugs, lacewings, spiders, beetles, and wasps. To keep the infestation from spreading to other plants, removing the pests by hand is a great initial strategy. If the attack is too widespread, remove infected plant parts, sprinkle diatomaceous earth around the base of plants, and/or apply Spinosad, a bio-pesticide that protects many of the beneficial insects.

garden pests aphids
garden pests cutworm
garden pests potato beetle
garden pests slugs
garden pests tomato hornworm
garden pests animals
Garden Pests2018-10-29T00:33:13-04:00

Champion Generator Review 46539

Champion Generator Review 46539

The Champion Power Equipment 46539 4,000 Watt 196cc 4-Stroke Gas Powered Portable Generator has a starting wattage of 4,000 watts and a running wattage of 3,500 watts.

One great feature about the Champion 4000 watt generator is that it has three different ways to start it. It has a wireless remote, electric start, or a pull start.

There is some assembly required. You will need to install the wheel kit, the support leg, the handle, and the battery.

You must also fill the generator with the provided engine oil. The correct oil type is 10W-30 which is included in the package. Also included is a funnel to use while adding the oil. Simply remove the engine oil dipstick and add 0.63 quarts of oil, being careful not to overfill it.

Make sure you check the oil levels often, however if you forget to check the oil the generator has an automatic shut off when the oil gets too low.

Champion Generator 4000 Engine Controls

  • It runs on gasoline and is an Alternating current generator.
  • It has a gas gauge
  • The 3.8 gallon fuel tank is located on the top of the unit
  • It has an auto-choke feature
  • It comes with a 12 volt battery which is used to start the engine with the electric starter and the remote control. If for some reason the battery has been drained you can still start the generator using the pull string.
  • The panel comes with many features. It has an Intelligauge which tells you running hours, the voltage, and hertz.
  • The panel also has an ignition switch, circuit breakers and a ground terminal.
  • It has a battery switch used to enable or disable the ability to start the generator both electrically with the electric switch or remotely using the remote control.
  • It has three connection types:
  • 120 Volt AC, 30 Amp twist lock Outlet
  • 120 Volt AC, 30 Amp Outlet
  • 120 Volt AC, 20 Amp Duplex Outlet
  • It comes with a simple two button remote control. The options on the remote are Start and Stop. The remote can be used up to 80 feet away.

In order to use the remote control on this 4000 watt generator you first must make sure that on the generator control panel both the ignition switch and the battery switch are both turned on. The remote will not work if either one of these are in the off position.

Please be aware that when either of these switches are in the on position they will drain the battery. If you are not planning on using the generator keep both of these switches turned off.

Using the remote also provides a nice feature. When you use the remote to start the generator there is a 15 second delay after you hit start. This allows the 4000 watt generator to get fully up to speed before it begins to apply voltage to the item you have connected to it.

There is also a delay when you hit the stop button on the remote. First the voltage is turned off on the Champion generator and then after a 5 second delay the engine will stop. This is a great safety feature because it protects the items you have connected to the generator.

The voltage delay feature only works when starting and stopping with the remote. If you start or stop the generator with the electric start or the pull string make sure everything that is connected to the Champion generator is turned off before starting or stopping the 4000 watt generator. Otherwise you risk damaging not only the generator but also the items you have connected to it.

Champion Generator Review 46539 Features

  • 4,000 Starting Wattage
  • 3,500 Running Wattage
  • 196cc 4-Stroke OHV engine
  • The fuel tank holds 3.8 gallons of regular unleaded gasoline
  • The Champion generator can run up to 12 hours at 50% load
  • The wheels are 8 inches
  • The noise level is 68 dBa at 23 feet
  • It is 26.3 inches long
  • 24.4 inches wide
  • 22.4 inches tall
  • It weighs 138.9 pounds
Champion Generator Review 465392018-04-18T16:17:19-04:00

Best Wheelbarrow

Best Wheelbarrow Top 5 List

When it comes to the best wheelbarrow for your yard or garden you want something that is reliable and sturdy. Wheelbarrows are often referred to as a dump wagon, yard dump cart, yard wagon and garden trolley. Whatever name you use to describe them they all serve the same purpose. You load them up with yard waste and transport them somewhere else and dump the waste a into a pile. They are also useful for transporting heavy objects around your yard or garden. Forget the old fashioned wheelbarrows that had one wheel at the front that always liked to tip over with the slightest nudge. A two wheel wheelbarrow or a four wheel wheelbarrow is a better way to go. A motorized wheelbarrow is also an option these days. A power wheelbarrow does more than just carry debris it actually helps you move it too. Here is our list of what we think are some of the best wheelbarrows, including an electric wheelbarrow.

These Wheelbarrows easily make it onto the top 5 best wheelbarrow list.

Gorilla Cart Yard Dump Cart

Worx Aerocart

Marathon Wheelbarrow

Gorilla Cart Steel Garden Cart

Greenworks Cordless Garden Cart

Gorilla Cart Yard Dump Cart

The Gorilla Carts GOR6PS Heavy-Duty Poly Yard Dump Cart with 2-In-1 Convertible Handle, 1,200-Pound Capacity, Black is great for transporting anything around your yard. This Gorilla dump cart holds a maximum weight of 1,200 pounds. It is tough and can pretty much handle anything you put in it.

Just like a traditional wheelbarrow the Gorilla cart tilts up to dump it’s contents. Unlike a wheelbarrow there is no strenuous and heavy lifting and awkwardly balancing and trying to dump the contents with just one wheel. The Gorilla Cart simply tilts back and easily dumps it’s contents while remaining completely stable, which means no more heavy lifting.

This is a great cart that will help you immensely with yard work and gardening, from transporting heavy items such as soil or mulch or carrying tools. It is far superior to a traditional wheelbarrow, it’s much more stable, will tilt and dump it’s contents out while remaining on all four wheels.

This cart has a 40 inch by 25 inch bed with 13 inch garden cart wheels. It has a 1,200 pound carrying capacity and a poly bed which makes maintenance and keeping it clean very easy.

Gorilla Carts GOR6PS Heavy-Duty Poly Yard Dump Cart with 2-In-1 Convertible Handle, 1,200-Pound Capacity, Black

Worx Aerocart

The WORX Aerocart Multifunction 2-Wheeled Yard Cart, Dolly, and Wheelbarrow with Flat Free Tires is a versatile yard cart which does more than just a regular wheelbarrow, while it can certainly be used as a regular wheelbarrow holding up to 300 lbs. and having roughly 3 cubic feet of space inside the cart. It can also be used as a dolly.

We found the dolly feature on the Worx cart to be super useful for moving large objects, we found this to be so much nicer and more convenient than having to have a regular large and heavy dolly sitting around the house that can only do one thing. We also like how this cart has extension arms that can hold up to 80 lbs. these arms are great for attaching a potted plant, bags, rocks or anything else that can be tied or strapped onto them. These arms make it super easy to transport items around the yard.

This is a great cart for average around the house use. It certainly is not as heavy duty as some of our other picks as far as carrying capacity and size, but if you are looking for a yard cart that is more than just a wheelbarrow the Worx Aerocart is a great choice that makes it onto our best wheelbarrow list.

WORX Aerocart Multifunction 2-Wheeled Yard Cart, Dolly, and Wheelbarrow with Flat Free Tires

Marathon Wheelbarrow

The Marathon Dual-Wheel Residential Yard Rover Wheelbarrow and Yard Cart is a nice little two wheel yard cart. It’s great as a garden companion for carrying tools, supplies, and anything else you might need. It has a 300 pound carrying capacity which we liked. We also like the two wheel design which makes it much sturdier than a typical wheelbarrow that has one wheel.

We like how light it is coming in at only 29 lbs. and the handle is easy to hold onto to which we found makes the Marathon wheelbarrow easy to maneuver and pull or push around the yard. The Marathon wheelbarrow is perfect if you are looking for a simple yard cart that can easily handle everyday yard work.

Marathon Dual-Wheel Residential Yard Rover Wheelbarrow and Yard Cart

Gorilla Cart Steel Garden Cart

The Gorilla Carts GOR400-COM Steel Garden Cart with Removable Sides, 400-lbs. Capacity, Green is a steel cart that can haul up to 400 lbs. We found this garden cart to be really tough and robust. The feature we like the best is that the side panels are removable which is great because it allows the Gorilla cart to carry oversized objects which we really like. This garden cart is more than just a work cart for your yard. You can take it with you anywhere to haul around items. Going to the park? Take the Gorilla Cart and have it haul coolers, blankets, containers or anything else.

We also like the 10 inch pneumatic tires and the fact that the front tires turn which means you can steer the cart using the handle, this made it very easy to move around our work area. We found the Gorilla cart to be a great versatile choice not only for yard work but for other everyday activities that require lugging stuff around so it easily makes it onto the best wheelbarrow list.

Gorilla Carts GOR400-COM Steel Garden Cart with Removable Sides, 400-lbs. Capacity, Green

Greenworks Cordless Garden Cart

If you want to make yard work easier a motorized wheelbarrow is a great option.

The Greenworks 40V Cordless Garden Cart, 4.0 AH Battery Included GC40L410 is a cordless electric wheelbarrow that is powered by a lithium ion rechargeable battery. Since the Greenworks is a power wheelbarrow that runs on battery power there is no need to worry about gas, oil, and stinky exhaust fumes. No matter how great a traditional wheelbarrow is it still requires muscle power to move it around. The Greenworks motorized wheelbarrow is an excellent choice if you want the wheelbarrow to do the heavy lifting and moving.

Greenworks 40V Cordless Garden Cart, 4.0 AH Battery Included GC40L410

Best Wheelbarrow2018-05-01T23:22:16-04:00